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Tourism

by Andrew Eaton Lewis

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1.
Welcome to my island On the edge of a vast ocean Where you can feel completely alive While staring at oblivion My head had been so quiet Now there’s a rush of traffic And so we must be extra careful Not to get run down Everybody needs to get away I hope you find what you’re looking for And if you don’t there’s an empty shore Where you can howl at the ocean I’m happy that you’re here I hope you’ll stay The winters can feel endless But there’s beauty in the darkness And then light at the end I’ve found a kind of peace here The voices are much quieter They say things like ‘you worthless piece of crap, Look at that view! What the hell is wrong with you? In midwinter you are desperate for light At midsummer you just want to get some sleep And then another year is through.’ And yes I know I know I know So here’s my tourist information Ignore the roadworks and just focus on the sky Til you reach your destination Everybody needs to get away I hope you find it comforting And if it’s not, you can drink our gin and then howl at the ocean I’m happy that you’re here I hope you’ll stay The winters can feel endless But there’s beauty in the darkness And then light at the end. Welcome to my island I’m trying to be more welcoming But honestly I’m still a building site And the signage is confusing.
2.
I’m fighting against nature and nature is winning and that’s as it should be, not some hollow victory so I’ll be back next year to slaughter your children. These are the thoughts that go through my head as I’m pulling ragwort on the Sabbath. I’m spending my weekdays putting down roots and spending my weekends tearing them up again. I see you, old neighbour, gossiping and judging all I’m uprooting and nothing I’m planting. These are the thoughts that go through my head as I’m pulling ragwort on the Sabbath I fell into a century long sleep and woke up at the top of the world. Found a road that leads everywhere and nowhere at once where the sea and the sky are a sucker punch. I tried to leave myself in the city but the fucker followed me to Stornoway. I dumped him in a shieling but he’s stubbornly alive. I still lose days to email while my kids make knives. They are something I am not. I am not yet quite sure what but it gives me hope. These are the thoughts that go through my head as I’m pulling ragwort on the Sabbath. These are the things that go through my head... It might sound like defiance but I’m often on your side. Some weeks it’s the only day I feel alive in this madness, this sadness, this not completing anything and not allowed to stop, the constant pulling up of roots while never planting crops. I am a murderer wanting something to survive on the Sabbath.
3.
Donny, don’t take my croft from me It’s all that I’ve got to keep me company Donny, don’t take my croft from me It’s all that you’re not, and it makes me happy I know that my mind is not what it was I know that my hands shake in the evenings But I remember Glasgow like colour TV And I can’t breathe that air, don’t do that to me. Donny, don’t take my croft from me It’s all that I’ve got to keep me company Donny, you make no sense to me. Two dozen sheep are all the life I need You may have won power of attorney But you have lost the power of empathy How can you talk about prosperity When out of my window I can see galaxies? That orange glow that blots out your sky Consider it a warning The shrill car alarm that fills up your ears First thing every morning Yeah I know that my light is dying But before I’m a neutron star I intend to go supernova In the back seat of your car Oh if only I could get the words out. Dad, what are you saying to me? You’re making no sense, You have tears in your eyes Don’t fret about your skeletal sheep They’re in safe hands now We caught them just in time We’ll drive by the croft Say one last goodbye.
4.
There’s a waterfall that flows upwards When the wind is strong enough There’s a tiny, petrified forest Alive with a flock of birds There’s a beach with a million stones That sing to you at night But a photograph Or a description Cannot reach so many miles I’m not much use as a guide to the Western Isles I wish you were here I’m sorry the path’s not been clearer I’m sorry the ocean is frightening I hope it gets easier I’m sorry I can’t write a guidebook To help you find your way through this I hope it gets easier Just know this is your home Just know that you are loved.
5.
She wants to jump the fence She wants to jump the fence She wants to know what’s out there She wants to test her legs She wants to jump the fence She wants to run to that mountain To see what’s behind it To see if it’s real And she says to them 'How do you know you’re happy? How do you know you’re happy when all that you know is food and water? How do you know you’re happy? How do you know you’re happy when all that you know is the smell of each other?' She wants to jump the fence It’s all she’s wanted for years She was always faster and smarter Bored of the boys Flocking around And complaining! 'You ought to be more quiet You ought to be more humble The cleverest ones always get into trouble You ought to be more placid You ought to be more tranquil The noisiest ones are the ones who get killed That’s why you won’t jump the fence That’s why you won’t jump the fence Because the ones who leave Never come back They have never come back.' And as the engine noise approaches And as the others run towards it She takes one last look at the field and then disappears
6.
The mainland 03:43
A long time ago I lived on the mainland A place in the cloud Off the edge of the map Where people live in tribes Each with their own language Avoid each other’s eyes Type instead of talking So no one ever knows what they’re really thinking They eat out of boxes While staring at computers In the middle of the night The lights are always on But some of them are haunted by things they can’t explain A feeling of unease That burrows through their brain Like mechanical diggers Moving soil aside To put in pipes and cables And tunnels to provide For the needs of the mainland But the deeds of the mainland are drilling tiny holes in everybody’s souls. That’s why I had to go I live in a hotel I struggle with the language I’ll always be a tourist A boat on the sea Adrift from the mainland But not of the island And I can live with that If it can live with me Like everyone I’m looking For somewhere to call home I’m from so many places I barely even know I'm a swimmer in the mainstream A ‘normal’ kind of guy Trying to tune in Unskillfully to the song of the sea I don’t have a solution Other than to swim Live as if I’ll die If I don’t dive in Swim from the mainstream away from the mainland Out into the sea Into the darkness Into the unknown.
7.
Valhalla 02:23
To save you time here’s how we’ll say goodbye I was just a tourist and now I’m moving on It’s been great but there’s so much more to see Maybe when you’re older you’ll feel the same as me Man it will have been such a beautiful adventure Everything I’ve seen and that I saw it with you I’ll send you a postcard by DNA Honey don’t you cry you no longer need a tour guide You are doing fine, you have all the maps you need You’ve mastered the language, I couldn’t be more proud No prayers please, no awkward talk of God The Bible’s just a brochure of sites we have seen But now my soul is itching to travel somewhere new Any one of billions of galaxies will do So lay me on a long ship, set it on fire I’ll write you from Valhalla or Folkvangr. Man it will have been such a beautiful adventure Everything I’ve seen and that I saw it with you I’ll send you a postcard by DNA Everybody hopes that their journey will mean something Even if the road has been rocky on the way And when I look at you I know we made it through Honey don’t you cry you no longer need a tour guide You are doing fine, you have all the maps you need You’ve mastered the language, I couldn’t be more proud But I am leaving now I don’t know what’s in store When my ship leaves this shore And if it’s just an empty sea I hope you’ll still think of me
8.
It's six in the morning, and I'm in my bed I spend most of the night in the shed I was in the shed with me and my mate Scoffing magic mushrooms off a plate Oh I am a country boy, and I don't like the city I'd rather be at home watching the telly The cows and sheep are in the croft That I'm hiding up in my granny's loft Trying to find a way to make a living Well, I know it isn't normal, and I know it isn't right Any average man would get a fright My head is in the clouds, and my guts are on the deck It's seven hours to go before I lose the sweats I am a country boy, and I don't like the city I'd rather be at home watching the telly The cows and sheep are in the croft I'm hiding up in my granny's loft Trying to find a way to make a living Trying to find a way to make a living (Plate full of sgadan and some marag dhub Plate full of sgadan and some marag dhub)
9.
Still 03:43
You and I are never still There’s always just so much to do Even in this quiet place It was never an escape It just provides a clearer view Of all the horrors in the world That they will need to make it through And so at night we lie awake Wondering if they’ll be ok Wondering if they’ll be ok You and I are only still When somebody is in pain When a bitter truth comes out And we see ourselves again There are deeds we can’t undo Stupid lies I can’t unsay Our lives are maps of our mistakes And so at night we lie awake Wondering if we’ll be ok Wondering if we’ll be ok I am scared that if ever I stay still It’ll be clear that I don’t deserve this That’s why my hands are always full You are scared and there’s nothing I can say I’ve been here half a century I still stumble through each day This is an atonement A statement of intent An anthem for the future Or at least an attempt Forgive me, I still love you Forgive me, I still need you There are no maps for this part of our lives, just a one track route, a few passing places where events overtake you at frightening speed or you’re battered by storms as you cling to your seat I’m not much of a driver but I’m trying my best to keep us together through the harshest of tests. I don’t want to be someone you pass on the road. I feel like we’ve still got a long way to go
10.
All art is worthless except for the fact that it makes life bearable. If you lose your compass you will not find it inside a shopping mall. Classical poetry Digital content Flowers at the funeral After the pub Before the storm A glass that's half full The comfort of darkness The kindness of crowds A word that reminds you of your 16th birthday The boy who broke your heart The meaning of life The anthem you hope will help bring down the government The keening lament when they win And everything in between I've only trod lightly left a faint footprint but it's all that I can do. All art is worthless except for the fact that nothing else gets you through.
11.
On weekends I search for little seeds of wisdom Pull what’s not needed, repeat, rake through, Yeah I’m a sinner but it’s the work of finding peace here, Of finding me here, or something new. Nothing in those seven-day weeks, those floodlit streets could give me what I need. Maybe if I dig deep enough into the soil, underneath the weeds, pulling ragwort on the Sabbath. My children have already almost forgotten They can take root here, shaped by the stone. The city might as well be a simulation but if you cracked me open you’d see its code and it only lets me go a Sunday, pulling ragwort on the Sabbath.
12.
Hey now, little speedyhead The read on the speedmeter says You have to go to task in the city Where people drown and people serve Don't be shy, your just deserve Is only just light years to go Me, my thoughts are flower strewn Ocean storm, bayberry moon I have got to leave to find my way Watch the road and memorize This life that pass before my eyes And nothing is going my way The ocean is the river's goal A need to leave the water knows We're closer now than light years to go I have got to find the river Bergamot and vetiver Run through my head and fall away Leave the road and memorize This life that pass before my eyes And nothing is going my way There's no one left to take the lead But I tell you and you can see We're closer now than light years to go Pick up here and chase the ride The river empties to the tide Fall into the ocean The river to the ocean goes A fortune for the undertow None of this is going my way There is nothing left to throw Of ginger, lemon, indigo Coriander stem and rose of hay Strength and courage overrides The privileged and weary eyes Of river poet search naiveté Pick up here and chase the ride The river empties to the tide All of this is coming your way

about

'Superlative.... riven with a yearning and melancholia that’s reminiscent of some of Nick Cave‘s early solo work. The sense of clarity here of experiences lived and learnt and the acknowledgement of the fragility of life makes this a record you should invest time in.' Bill Cummings, God is in the TV.

In early 2018 I moved from Edinburgh city centre to a clifftop in the Outer Hebrides. Tourism is a collection of songs inspired by that life change - songs about crofts and sheep and dark skies and wild weather, about feeling like a tourist in someone else’s culture, about the ‘mainland’ becoming somewhere on the edge of your experience, about my past and my children's future, and ultimately about whether we are all just tourists on Earth, on a brief visit from somewhere more permanent that we return to afterwards.

The album consists of ten new songs plus two contrasting cover versions. Sad Country Boy was an attempt to draw out the hidden melancholy in my new label mates Peat & Diesel, which they may not thank me for. And in keeping with Tourism’s exploration of mortality and returning to nature, it closes with my version of Find the River by R.E.M. The track first appeared last year on a A Carnival of Sorts, a compilation of R.E.M covers by musicians from all over the world, curated for the band's 40th anniversary by God is in the TV (and endorsed, excitingly, by R.E.M themselves).

Thank you to Wee Studio Records for welcoming me to their musical family. Thanks also to my astrophotographer friend Andy Yearley (of Stornoway Astronomical Society) for kindly donating the cover photo, which is of Mercury orbiting the Sun. In Roman religion Mercury was the god of 'financial gain, commerce, eloquence, messages, communication, travelers, boundaries, luck, trickery, and thieves', which sums up both the tourism industry and the music industry quite well. In this image, Mercury the tourist/musician/god/human is dwarfed by the vastness of the Sun. You can decide for yourself what this massive ball of fire might represent.

Tourism is dedicated to Laura and my children (always the most important place on the map) and to the memory of our friends Beldina Odenyo and John Stahl.

Thank you for listening.

credits

released March 18, 2022

Vocals, piano, organ, synths, stamping, clapping: Andrew Eaton Lewis
Guitars: Scott C Park
Live drums: Keith Morrison, Scott C Park
Produced by Keith Morrison at Wee Studio.
Cover image by Andy Yearley.
Cover design by Andrew Eaton Lewis and Scott C Park

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Andrew Eaton Lewis Scotland, UK

‘Exhilarating… stirringly fresh and smart.’ The Independent

'Adult pop with heart and brains.' The Guardian.

'Like minimalist classical composers working on adventurous ballads for R.E.M.' The Herald.
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